SECRETS
Secrets
March 19th, 2008
Chefs give up their secret spots. Christopher St. Cavish passes them on.
Makoto
Who told: Craig Willis, Wagas Group.
Why: It’s a Japanese mom-and-pop (and son) operation, run by Sei and his parents, and it feels like family.
Order: Monkfish liver; grilled bamboo; live fish sashimi.
177 Fumin Lu, near Julu Lu, 5403 1943.
富民路177号,近巨鹿路
Xiao Jiang Bei BBQ
Who told: Hamish Pollitt, M on the Bund.
Why: It’s a down-and-dirty late night Shanghainese place with a menu that changes with the seasons.
Order: Back-alley barbecue. Lamb chops; chicken hearts; sheep testicles.
128 Huoshan Lu, near Zhoushan Lu. (BBQ joints don’t have phone numbers.)
霍山路128路,近舟山路
Bo Duo Xin Ji
Who told: Philippe Leban, Hamilton House.
Why: It’s hidden in plain sight, and damn good.
Order: Steamed fish with black beans, chili, and spring onion; cucumbers with garlic.
No 4, Lane 9 Baoqing Lu, near Fuxing Lu, 6474 5301.
宝庆路9弄4号,近复兴路
New Star Korean Spa
Who told: Kelley Lee, Boxing Cat Brewery, iiit!.
Why: It’s the Korean Xiao Nan Guo – a 24-hour spa with body scrubs, milk baths, and spicy Korean food.
Order: Things with rice: shikhye, a cold fermented rice drink; dduk bok-kee, spicy stir-fried rice dumplings; kimchi fried rice.
Lane 258 Jinhui Nan Lu, near Hongquan Lu, 3432 0777.
金汇南路258弄,近虹泉路
De Xing Noodle House
Who told: Tommes, Enoteca.
Why: They’ve been in business since 1878 because they’re doing something right. The noodles.
Order: Menti xiangu mian – soup noodles with sweet, marinated shitake mushrooms and pressed pork belly.
471 Guangdong Lu, near Fujian Lu, 6352 2535.
广东路471号,近福建路
The bar food menu at Jean Georges
Who told: Paul Pairet, Jade on 36.
Why: “Why does Toto ride a green bicycle?” he asked me. I don’t know what it means either. Order: Black truffle and fontina pizza; mini cheeseburgers with extra crispy fries; basil-dusted deep-fried squid.
4/F, Three on the Bund, 3 Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu, near Guangdong Lu, 6321 7733.
外滩3号4楼 中山东一路3号,近广东路
A Shan
Who told: Jereme Leung, Whampoa Club.
Why: Small-time Shanghainese restaurant with big-time customers in big-time cars who know how they like their hongshao rou. Old-time chef.
Order: Red-braised fish tails; salted fresh water shrimp; pork trotters in soy sauce.
2378 Hongqiao Lu, near Hongjing Lu, 6268 6583.
虹桥路2378号, 近虹井路
Coco Curry at City Plaza
Who told: Brad Turley, Maneo.
Why: “Because it’s goooooooddd.”
Order: Japanese chicken curry on rice.
B1, City Plaza, 1618 Nanjing Xi Lu, near Huashan Lu, 6288 5167.
久光 南京西路1618号B1楼,近华山路
Tonkatsu Hamachan
Who told: Sean Jorgensen, Mansion.
Why: It’s the perfect fried pork chop.
Order: Uh, the tonkatsu.
176 Jiaozhou Lu, near Beijing Lu, 6256 8674.
胶州路176号,近北京路
You Shan
Who told: Ken Walker, Bubba’s.
Why: It pulls together two sides that don’t usually meet: Japanese crowds and a ¥168 all-inclusive price tag.
Order: Sushi; Asahi draft.
521 Shuicheng Lu, near Maotai Lu, 5206 5017.
水城路521号,近茅台路

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