The JW Marriott’s Yang Zhiwei explains it to Zhou Wei.

1. Pick your crab.

The crustaceans from Jiangsu’s Yangcheng Lake are the most famous, but they’re also heavily counterfeited. In 2003, farmers even tried to laser print serial numbers on the genuine article. They’re not the only kind that are tasty, but if you want the real deal, stick to a reputable source, like a five-star hotel or a famous crab restuarant like Wang Baohe (see panel).

2. Break off the legs

It’s not a matter of life or death whether you start with the hairy claws or the legs, although everyone seems to have a preference. Break them off with your fingers and set them to the side.

3. Remove the apron

That small flap on the bottom of the crab that will tell you its gender (see panel) is called the “apron.” Grab onto it, and open it away from the body of the crab. It will snap off easily. If there’s any roe attached to it, reserve it. Otherwise, there’s nothing to eat in the apron.

4. Remove the top shell

Once the legs and claws are gone, the crab is really just two parts: a top shell, and the body it covers. Hold it as pictured, and open the shell firmly. Inside the top shell is where the fabled orange roe lies. Use a chopstick or long tool to scrape it out, along with everything else in the shell. It’s all edible.

5. Remove the lungs

Technically, they’re more gills than lungs. Either way, they’re the only part of the crab you don’t want to eat. They act as filters and taste terrible. After you’ve opened the shell, you’ll find them on the body of the crab. Pull them off with your fingers.

6. Break the body in half

Without the top shell (in the foreground), it’s possible to break the body in half with your hands. This will make it easier to remove the meat. Some very refined eaters take this a step further, and after breaking, use scissors to cut the body horizontally for even better access.

Is it a boy or a girl?

You can tell the difference by the flap on the underside of the crab, called the ‘apron’. On females (pictured left), it’s broad, and rounded, while on males (right), it’s narrower and pointier. In the beginning of the season, connoisseurs prefer the female, claiming her meat is sweeter, and the roe fatter. They wait until October for the male crab to mature. The fussiest diners wait for the first chill following the mid-autumn festival before eating, which, they say, signals the crab to hunker down and start producing fat.

Hairy Crab History: Wang Baohe

The history of this restaurant dates back to 1744. The Wang family opened a shop selling primarily Shaoxing wine, which eventually moved to Nanjing Dong Lu, and added a small amount of cooked hairy crabs to its offerings. They developed a good reputation, and after the father died, the sons split the business and moved. One son, Wang Baohe, eventually settled at the current location, which carries on the tradition to this day, at what has become one of the most famous and specialized places to eat hairy crabs in Shanghai. They’ve gone as far as developing their own crab-eating tools.
555 Jiujiang Lu, near Fujian Zhong Lu, 5396 5000. 九江路555号,近福建中路

Where to eat hairy crabs:

1. Ming Palace.
This restaurant at the new Parkview Hotel next to the Oriental Arts Center isn’t wasting any time in establishing a large feast. Their set menus range from ¥380-580, depending on the size of the crabs, and their cooking methods. Parkview Hotel, 555 Dingxiang Lu, near Shiji Da Dao, 6162 1118.
丁香路555号，近世纪大道

2. Gui Hua Lou.
A ten course hairy crab set menu, including a bottle of Remy Martin VSOP, is available for ¥888 per person. Other crab dishes on the menu start at ¥28. For purists, steamed crabs are available at market price. Pudong Shangri-La, 1/F, Tower 1, 33 Fucheng Lu, near Binjiang Da Dao, 6882 8888.
富城路33号香格里拉酒店1楼，近滨江大道

3. New Tang Palace.
Their Yangcheng Lake crabs are priced by sex and size. Male crabs start at 225 grams, and are ¥128 each; 250 gram crabs are ¥168. Female crabs begin at 150 grams, and are ¥128; 200 gram crabs are ¥168. Crowne Plaza Pudong, 1000 Yanggao Lu, near Xiabi Lu, 5862 1000.
杨高路1000号外高桥皇冠假日酒店，近夏碧路